The much anticipated Wicked film is flying to big screens on 22nd November, and we at Toolally are pretty excited to say the least.

We’ve been keeping a close eye on the details that costume designer Paul Tazewell has brought to our witchy friends on screen, and studying the jewellery and accessories that accompany their costumes. 

We’ve also been investigating the similarities and differences between the movie costumes and those on the original Broadway show - how is Tazewell presenting his vision? What’s new, and what does he keep the same? 

Before we sink our teeth into the fashion, a bit about the geniuses behind the iconic costumes of Wicked and The Wizard of Oz - onstage and onscreen. 

Susan Hilferty - Costume Designer for Wicked (Broadway Musical est. 2003)

The day-one costume designer for Wicked, Susan Hilferty has worked on 15 Broadway productions of the iconic musical since first building its wardrobe for its opening in 2003. Having been nominated for four Tony awards following her 2004 win for her artistry, she really is the genius behind Wicked’s wardrobe.

Hilferty describes how Wicked came to her with divine timing: “I always say that Wicked came to me at the exact right moment in my career - It gave me the opportunity at exactly the right moment to move into a kind of storytelling that I love to do.”

 susanhilferty.com 

Paul Tazewell - Costume Designer for Wicked (2024 film) 

Paul Tazewell is a New-York based designer who is a huge deal in the entertainment industry; designing costumes for Broadway, film, television and regional theatres for more than 30 years. From his Academy-Award nominated work in West Side Story to creating costumes for the Tony Award-winning Broadway production of Hamilton, his designs have cast a strong spell over the industry. 

“I’ve long been a fan of the Wicked musical, and The Wizard of Oz. I held both as a driving inspiration when designing costumes for the film to create an original reinterpretation of the Land of OZ, and a brand new vision. I’m confident that both avid fans of the musical and newcomers alike will love what we’ve done.”  - Paul Tazewell 

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Glinda’s Bubble Dress 

Arguably the most iconic costume in Wicked, Glinda’s bubble dress has been a hot topic since the arrival of the very first trailer, with Ariana Grande stunning viewers with a huge pink swirly number, armed with a sparkly silver wand and enormous crown. 

Ariana Grande on the set of Wicked - ew.com

If you need a pair of earrings to complement your pink ball gown and ethereal swirly crown, might I recommend the art deco hearts studs in sterling silver and cz - a pair fit for a good witch.

Tazewell went mathematical with the design of Glinda’s ball gown, using none other than the Fibonacci sequence as a springboard to influence the design - a geometric series of numbers that, when drawn, form a specific spiral pattern known as “the golden spiral”. Just step outside, and this sequence will be visible everywhere you look. 

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You can see how this inspiration manifested, with Grande’s dress spiralling round her in layers of silk. Tazewell accentuates the rainbow tones and curves throughout the design to convey Glinda’s softness and femininity which, of course, is set to contrast against Elphaba’s opposing style. 

Wicked - Paul Tazewell Costume Design (youtube.com)

The more observant among us might have noticed the colour of Glinda’s latest get up - it’s pink! Which is a change from Susan Hilferty’s original blue bubble dress design in the stage musical. 

 susanhilferty.com

Hilferty details the influences behind this absolute masterpiece. Throughout every moment of costuming,  she kept in mind that “Elphaba’s from the earth, and Glinda’s from the sky.” and she reminded herself throughout designing to always reconnect with their assigned elements. 

For this reason, Hilferty designed Glinda’s bubble dress to appear “light and effortless”,  which is a complete illusion: “the truth is that because it’s got so many sequins on it, it’s actually quite heavy.”  
There are more than 68,000 sequins on this dress - each one sewn on by hand.

The bubble dress gets its name from Glinda’s on-stage entrance, which she does in Wicked’s notorious giant metal bubble contraption. Onscreen in The Wizard of Oz, she appears in a big human-sized bubble - (an impressive use of technicolour back in the day). 

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Glinda’s bubble dress is the perfect illusion - it’s a hefty piece of stage engineering as well as a sparkly piece of Edwardian x Dior style gorgeousness. 

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Turning to that absolute stunner of a statement pendant - if you’re looking for an everyday piece that mirrors the shape of Glinda’s necklace, look no further than our Arrowhead pendant necklace in sterling silver. 

Clearly, Tazewell was a big fan of statement accessories too - we’re glad Glinda’s tiara has kept its height in the upcoming movie. Although the magic wand appears to have shrunk a little… 

 
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If you’re looking for something special to wear to your local cinema for the first screening of Wicked, a sky-high statement crown may prove irritating for those in the seats behind. I suggest you switch the headwear out for a pair of our Star Chandelier Earrings in Pink Glitter and Iridescent instead.

Elphaba’s Wicked Witch Dress

Hilferty described her design for the wicked witch dress: “there’s beads that have been added, all different fabrics. It’s weighty. You can see how many different colours were included in the making of the skirt. When I look at it, it reminds me of looking at coal, looking at mica, looking at things that come from the earth.” 

 
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Tazewell branched out from Hilferty’s original design, imagining different elements of the earth to inspire the making of Elphaba’s new gown. He describes how the dress for the movie was very much “inspired by the textures and patterns of mushrooms and fungus in nature.” 

instagram.com/wickedmovie 

 mushroomthejournal.com

Tazewell describes how he achieved the effect: “it’s made of micro-pleated fabric that’s been laid onto a base, and it creates this undulation.” 

Cynthia Erivo, who plays Elphaba in the new movie, praises Tazewell’s creation, saying “Paul created this beautiful pleated dress that felt like velvet with an underlayer of purple and lace” - a witchy mushroom dress that sounds comfy as well?! I’m in. 

Elphaba’s accessories only go as far as a sensible pair of glasses, a pointy black hat, and a broomstick/wooden staff. If we were to advise Elphaba to add just a little bit of sparkle to her fit, whilst keeping it green and grounded, we’d probably suggest one of our newest and most magical pieces: the Amethyst Bolt Pendant in Green Amethyst and Gold Vermeil. 

As well as being a wicked shade of green (or purple, of course!), amethysts are known for being one of the most powerful stones to use in witchy rituals. Definitely one to rock if you’re hoping to channel your inner Elphaba this season. 

Wicked - in cinemas 22nd November

Whether you’re dressing witches, wizards, lions, tigers or bears (oh my!) the costume cupboard is a truly magical place. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my little musical theatre deep dive/geek out into Oz’s costume design. 

Keep an eye out for the next “long read” which will be delivered to your inbox once a month - we’ll be exploring different topics within the statement jewellery world, such as the semiotics of stones, the Met Gala theme for 2025, and interviews with industry professionals. 

‘Til then, see you in the cinema! I’ll be waiting there in the dark from now until 22nd November. 

Daisy x

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